Home | Climate/Conditions | Soils | Ideas | Raised Beds | Companions
Recipes |About Catalogs | Bill Simpson | Bessemer Bend Stocks
Vegetable Variety Pages: | Beans - Carrot | Cauliflower - Corn |Cucumber - Peas
Peppers - Squash |Tomato - Watermelon
2009 Notes | 2008 2007 | 2006 | 2005 | 2004 | 2003 | 2002
This page: 2009 Planting Guide, When to Start Seed, When to Set Out
Wyogrow...where the tough get growing, by Fred Jacquot
I have been an active gardener in the Casper area now for over 30 years. Back when I first started no one could tell a beginner what kind of carrots or tomatoes grew best here. Because I have been taking notes all these years, you can find out what plants do best in Wyoming on the 'vegetable varieties' pages, whose links are above.
Along with my partners Mark McAtee and Paul Combe I have done a lot of experimenting and research. You can find the results of this activity on these many pages. Please click on the links and start viewing our work. I think you will find that there is a huge amount of information available here for you. Enjoy!

Below are a few links to some nice garden sites.

'Best of the Catalogs' article. Enjoy!
Texas A&M Vegetables
Here is a link to Garden Guides!
Rocky Mountain Garden Forum
Garden Humor

2010 Notes:

July 5, 2010

A regular reader from Idaho sends this note.

Regular readers know that I keep a degree-day chart each year. I have chosen the base temperature of 50 degrees (F.) because I don't think plants do much growing below that temperature.

Degree days are the cumulative average temperatures above the set base (50 in this case). I always begin counting degree days on May 25, Casper's last average day of frost. If on May 25 the average temperature was 62 degrees, that would be 12 degrees above 50 and the cumulative total would be 12. If on May 26 the average temperature was 64 degrees, that is 14 degrees above 50 . I add that 14 to the 12 I already have, and the degree days for May 26 would be 26. Adding the degrees above the base together is what makes degree-days cumulative.

Here is the 2010 degree-day chart.

MAY 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 JUNE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
HIGH 58 55 58 48 61 73 79 85 85 67 70 67 71 70 77 76 74 83 73
LOW 41 44 31 36 37 34 47 47 46 28 38 53 44 48 52 49 43 45 50
AVER. 2009 49.5 49.5 44.5 42 49 53.5 63 66 65.5 47.5 54 60 57.5 59 64.5 62.5 58.5 64 61.5
DD (50) -1 2.5 15.5 31.5 47 44.5 48.5 58.5 66 75 89.5 102 110.5 124.5 136
JUNE 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25
HIGH 68 64 60 46 49 65 76 84 64 75 76 80 83 71 77 90 90
LOW 42 56 48 44 43 43 39 45 45 43 43 57 48 45 42 45 49
AVER. 20010 56 60 52 45 46 53.5 57.5 64.5 54.5 59 59.5 68.5 65.5 58 59.5 67.5 69.5
DD (50) 142 152 154 149 145 148.5 156 170.5 175 164 173.5 192 207.5 215.5 225 242.5 262
JUNE 26 27 28 29 30 JULY1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
HIGH 80 80 85 93 93 85 88 83 64
LOW 60 47 49 52 65 58 58 53 45
AVER. 2009 70 63.5 67 72.5 79 71.5 73 68 54.5
DD (50) 282 295.5 312.5 335 364 385.5 408.5 426.5 431

- - This year's Degree Days compared to past years - -

Degree Days Through June 30
Through July 15
Through July 31
Through August 15
Through August 31
Through Sept. 19
This
Period
Running
Total
This
Period
Running
Total
This
Period
Running
Total
This
Period
Running
Total
This
Period
Season
Total
This
Period
Season
Total
2010
364
364
2009
327
327
258.5
585.5
256
841.5
267
1108.5
216
1324.5
254.5
1579
2008
292.5
292.5
281
573.5
387
960.5
289
1249.5
282.5
1532
96
1628
2007
431.5
431.5
348.5
780
400.5
1180.5
344.5
1525
278.5
1803.5
277.5
2081
2006
567.5
567.5
332.5
900
426.5
1326.5
308.5
1635
294.5
1929.5
131.5
2061
2005
333.5
333.5
297
630.5
360
990.5
256.5
1247
240
1487
242.5
1729.5
2004
314
314
270
584
269
853
275.5
1128.5
197.5
1326
246
1572
2003
401.5
401.5
307.5
709
399
1108
388
1496
317.5
1813.5
146.5
1960
2002
528
528
360
888
364
1252
278
1530
262
1792
248
2040

June 28, 2010

I have been busy replanting where germination did not occur. The worst was the Espada Bean. This is a great bean, perhaps the best I've ever experienced. But, it is a bugger to germinate. We will not be planting it next season. Some of the squash and all the pumpkin are slow. I have replanted and will give them a week to pop up.

For five years we tried numerous pole beans without a lot of success. Then, three years after we gave up...and destroyed the Taj Mah Bean structure, some runner/pole beans came up volunteer in parter Linda's plot. I saved the seeds, and planted them this year. They are up like gang busters.

We have had a failure of germination in the Verona Watermelon. The Dixie Queen melons are up just fine. When I went to replace the Veronas I discovered that they were putting out roots, just very slowly. I plugged in some nice Crimson Sweet plants in their place.

I also noticed that the onion plants I ordered in had been nipped. Butch said the problem was probably due to over fertilization. I had added some nice horse manure to that bed. He was right. The manure is killing the Yellow Spanish Onions. But the white onion sets I put in their place are growing just fine. Go figure!

June 22, 2010

I knew that plants did their growing at night. But Barry Franck of Westside Nursery tells me that his reading reveals that they do their growing mostly in the first four hours of the night. That would indicate that the best time to water would be just before nightfall.

June 9, 2010

I now, finally have most everything planted. The corn will be about the last to go in. If you have not planted yet, do so. It is not too late. I notice that the Spirea in town (Casper) has been blooming for over a week now, and is just now in full bloom. It is as sure an indicator as there is for when to plant tomatoes.

Companion Planting

We routinely plant our radish in rows between our broccoli or cabbage. Not only are they good companions, (they are fellow brassicas) but the bigger plants help shade the radish and thus extend our radish season. I will be planting carrot and onion between my peppers and tomatoes this year. But please do keep the onions away from the brassicas and the nightshades (tomatom, pepper, eggplant, tomatilla, garden huckleberry, etc.). Last season I noted that marigolds inhibited the growth of my peppers, but did not bother the tomatoes. Companion Planting is one way to get our beds to be more productive, it allows more intensive planting to take place in our raised beds.

June 2, 2010

We are late getting our garden in. I am not worried about that because our soil temperatures are not very high yet because of the cool and wet Spring we have had. I notice that the fruiting trees in the Casper area are magnificent this year. Along Garden Creek the Chokecherry are heavy with blossoms, and the Current bushes are blooming like I have not seen in decades.

.....

In my last comments I posted a note from a gardener in Greybull. She came across the recommended list of vegetables on the University of Wyoming Extension Site. I give the link below.

http://ces.uwyo.edu/HomeHorticulture.asp

I have a problem with this list. I can state that thirty years ago this list did not exist. I asked my Extension agent repeatedly for it. So, this list has been 'put together' sometime in the last 30 years. I could be very wrong, and please dear readers DO correct me if I am, but I strongly suspect that no amount of time was given to the formation of the list...no trials were ever held by the Extension Service, the University of Wyoming, or the U.S. Department of Agriculture. What I suspect is that at some point someone was appointed the task of making up the list. That person or persons simply asked around. That does, of course, not make the list wrong. But I would have a lot more confidence in it, and I would be a lot more confident referring readers to the list, if I knew what kind of testing was done before the list came to be. When you click on any of my Vegetable Varieties links you will see specific varieties we recommend. That recommendation comes only after we have grown that variety and it has performed very well for us. Some of the varieties we recommend have been grown by us for well over a decade. In addition, we are always trialing new (to us) varieties.

.......

It is typical that early plans for the garden fall apart. This season the plan for the Peppers is in trouble. I am scrambling to find replacement pepper plants right now. So expect some changes in that area. I will change the Planting Guide, at the bottom of this page, once I have all the peppers in.

May 25, 2010

For the Casper area, today is the Average Last Day of Frost. I personally am in no big hurry to plant things. The ground is just too cold. Yesterday, in the big rain, there were a few snow flakes mixed in.

Here is a note from a reader:

Here is another note:

No, you haven't scared me off. When I google the Extension Service, my first selection is their main, or index page.

http://ces.uwyo.edu/

Now, when I go there, the first thing I notice is that there is no button for home gardening. If I type in 'gardening' into the search field provided, I am led back to my original google search. If I hit the 'horiculture' button on the top of the main page, nothing happens except that a brief window tells me about the page I can not get to.

After a lot of hunting and pecking (something I am good at, because I built web pages for the Casper Star-Tribune and Trib.Com for ten years) I found this page.

http://ces.uwyo.edu/HomeHorticulture.asp

From this page one can download some informative pdf materials. But, I dare say that the average internet user will never be able to find his way to this page. And that is why I don't link to the University of Wyoming Extension pages. Like most of the University Extension, these pages reflect a heavy beaurocracy, that is meant to serve the farmer and rancher, not the vast majority of people who live in Wyoming and who might happen to like gardening.

I have long thought that the University was missing a bet with the Extension Service. There are a lot of home gardeners in Wyoming who would benefit from a good service, and UW would reap a lot of good PR from the effort. What I envision is at least four test-plot sites around the state which would test grow different varieties of vegetables, and even flowers, and report their findings each year. This is what our WyoGrow.Com does, but on a much smaller scale. Gardeners could visit the test-plots in their local areas and even visit others around the state to see for themselves how the variety tests were going.

May 12, 2010

I AM WYOMING, THE CRUSHER OF DAFFODILS. We have an inch of snow this morning and more is falling. It is not sticking to the pavement, but it is sticking to the daffodils and tulips.

Snowcount:

Neighbor's Daffodils: 5 snows, 3 sleets, blossoms half faded
My Daffodils: 2 snows, 3 sleets, blossoms half faded.

May 8, 2010

Last night set a record for cold on this date: 18 degrees. Spring is very slow to arrive. We've not had many warm days. We had sleet the night of May 4-5, and some stuck to the roof of my car. I now have onions, leeks, and lettuce planted.

Snowcount:

Neighbor's Daffodils: 4 snows, 3 sleets, blossoms half faded
My Daffodils: 1 snow, 3 sleets, blossoms half faded.

April 30, 2010

We had sleet on Tuesday (27th). Today we had snow, and some of it stuck on my daffodils.

Snowcount:

Neighbor's Daffodils: 4 snows, 2 sleets, blossoms half faded
My Daffodils: 1 snow, 2 sleets, blossoms

April 26, 2010

Today I noticed my first flowering bush/tree. Yesterday we had cold temps and quite a lot of sleet, though it did not stick to my daffodils.

Snowcount:

Neighbor's Daffodils: 3 snows, 1 sleet, blossoms half faded
My Daffodils: 1 sleet, blossoms, no snow yet.

April 19, 2010

Today I noticed the following:

Here is a recent note from Barry Franck at Westside Nursery.

April 17, 2010

People are already asking me if it is time to plant. The last average day for frost in Casper is May 25. May 1st is probably a good time to plant broccoli, carrots, lettuce, and onions. Peas will do better if planted about May 18.

Today my daffodils, with the northern exposure started to open their blossoms.

Snowcount:

Neighbor's Daffodils: 3
My Daffodils: blossoms, but no snow yet.

April 7, 2010

Yesterday morning there was a thin coating of snow on my neighbor's daffodils. That's Two.
After a melt yesterday, there was snow on my neighbor's daffodils this morning. That's Three.

Snowcount:

Neighbor's Daffodils: 3
My Daffodils: No blossoms yet.

April 4, 2010

Snowcount: This morning there was snow on my neighbor's daffodil blossoms. That's One.

April 3, 2010

I have often said on these pages that Spring has not truely come to those of us in Wyoming until the the daffodils have been snowed upon at least three times. My neighbor across the street has daffodils, as do I. His have a nice southern exposure. Mine have a northern exposure. So, his tend to bloom before mine. My gardening partner, Mark McAtee just sent me an email asking if our snow two days ago counts as 'one'. No it does not. My neighbor's daffodils did not have open blossoms during the recent storm, so that storm does not count. Also bear in mind that it can, and often does, snow on the daffodils more than three times. This is lousy daffodil country. Our climate is easier on tulips because they tend to bloom later.

Between Seasons, Winter 2009-2010

March 29, 2010

Barry Franck at Westside Nursery wanted me to give an explanation of Days to Maturity. This information is given as a number. The tricky thing is that there are two different kinds.

1. Days to Maturity for Direct Seeded:

2. Days to Maturity for Set Out Plants:

There is, of course, a caveat. We, in Wyoming live in a harsh climate. Please go to my One Third Rule to see how that climate affects the DTM. Basically, what that rule says is that to get a realistic idea for the DTM for a variety here in Casper, you should:

........................

About Climate:

The three big factors for success in the garden are: Selection, Soil, Weather. Let me expand (more) on the third.

The One Third Rule and the Climate/Conditions page deal with the climate factor. We are stuck with the cool climate that nature provides.

About Climate Modification:

There are things we can do to modify for, and make up for a harsh climate. Click Here To See Our Tomato Support System. Here you will see two ideas at work: Trellising and Tubes. Trellising vegetables allows the plant to have more exposure to heat and light than it would otherwise get. The Tubes we use are thick walled. They keep the chilling wind off the newly set-out plants, they absorb heat in the day and radiate it back to the plants at night, they direct water directly to the roots and allow for some deep soaking to occur in very hot weather, and they keep cut worms from attacking the plants.

We also will build 'tents' over the watermelon and musk melon. These tents are curved wire grids to which we have applied saran wrap. This traps a lot of heat...and the heat-loving melons love it. By mid-summer then plants are out growing the tents, and we remove the tents to let the vines run.

March 20, 2010

I have been to visit Barry Franck at Westside Nursery. He gave me a bag of fresh lettuce he was growing in his basement under grow lights. He also had carrots and broccoli growing. Barry and my partners and I will be trialling some peppers this coming season and I will let you all know of the results. I have also visited recently with Bill Simpson. He and we will be trialling some new (to us) tomatoes. Again, I will let you all know of the results on these pages.

About soils:

The three big factors for success in the garden are: Selection, Soil, Weather. Let me expand (more) on the second.

On this Soils page I have provided a discussion about soils, and how to mix the different elements for particular crops in your garden. Selection may be the most important factor for success. But soils are also very important.

Next month I will be moving large amounts of manure into our plots down by the Fairgrounds to boost those soils. Adding manure not only improves the nutrients available to the plants, but also increases soil temperatures. I realized last season that our soils were getting 'tired' and needed a manure boost. Do not neglect this in your garden. Barry Franck had tremendous success with cucumbers in a cold season last year simply by adding lots of manure.

February 6, 2010

The three big factors for success in the garden are: Selection, Soil, Weather. Let me expand (more) on the first.

The reason Bill Simpson grows Bloody Butcher Tomato in his garden is because this variety has performed well, year after year. It produces loads of smaller tomatoes that are a bit tart, a flavor that Bill really likes. It produces tomatoes earlier than other plants and the production is consistently strong throughout the rest of the season. Bloody Butcher rated a Two Star in our 2009 Taste Trials. When I say it performs year after year, that means it does well in warm and cool seasons. Nothing seems to slow this one down.

Here are links to my Vegetable Variety Pages:

Beans - Carrot

Cauliflower - Corn

Cucumber - Peas

Peppers - Squash

Tomato - Watermelon

On each page I recommend specific varieties and list varieties we are considering. On the left side of each variety listing are four-letter codes and a number. The four-letter code is a link to the site of a seed vendor that offers the variety in its catalog. The number is the 'days' that company lists for that variety to reach maturity. For plants like tomatoes and pepper, which are not usually direct seeded, the number represents the days to maturity from the time the start (already started) plant is set out into the bed. I list all of this information as an aid to you, fellow gardener, to help you find varieties that will work in your Wyoming garden.

February 2, 2010

The Natrona County Master Gardeners were very kind to send me a certificate of appreciation for the work I have done to educated other gardeners. Thank you Master Gardeners.

I am getting ready to order seeds and plants now. I have changed my mind about trialling Burpee's Brandy Boy for another season. 2009 was a cold season. We get those. It did not produce well in those conditions. I may get back to it and give it another try some year...just not in 2010. I have too many other varieties I would love to try. Instead of Brandy Boy, I am going to try two 'old' varieties: Big Beef and Amish Paste.

The three big factors for success in the garden are: Selection, Soil, Weather. Let me expand on the first.

I list Selection as the first because I feel it is the most important choice a gardener makes. What you plant makes a huge difference in what you get by the end of the season. A good Selection will help to overcome negatives in Soils and Weather. That is why I am constantly reading and re-reading my seed catalogs. I am always searching to improve the productivity of our garden plots, and to improve the quality of what we grow. What is the point of setting a tomato plant out that will not perform well in our climate? Who wants to waste a growing season on a plant that gives you ten tomatoes that don't taste that great? Our main production tomato, Applause, outperforms, per square foot, any other tomato I've seen grow here in Casper. In addition, it got a One-Star rating in our tomato taste trial at the end of the 2009 season. It is a Determinate that really loads up! We grow the Indeterminates to produce better tasting tomatoes than even Applause. And we are constantly looking to improve both production and taste from our Indeterminates. In this process, Selection is everything.

December 26, 2009

What the catalog does not say is very important.

As I said earlier, there are three factors which determine success in the garden: Seed (variety) Selection, Soil, Weather. You have the most control over the first two factors. Your success in choosing the right variety may well begin soon as the catalogs come to your houses. We are in the catalog season. I have received most already, and will get more in the next 4 weeks. I have found that catalogs have to be read very carefully. Let me give you an example. Here is the description of Big Bertha Pepper from the Totally Tomatoes Catalog:

We grew this pepper for a lot of years. So I can say with authority that everything in the above quote is accurate. But beware. The problem we always had with Big Bertha is that is has very thin walls. There is not much pepper in that pepper. A quick re-read of the description will reveal that Totally Tomatoes never said it did have thick walls. If you want thick walls on your pepper, you had better read the descriptions very carefully to make sure your seed supplier says the pepper has thick walls.

I love it when a description for a vegetable says that it is a 'vigorous grower'. If it does not mention how many fruit it produces, all you may get is a wonderful plant with not much fruit on it. You have to read carefully. The seed catalog will not lie, but it may omit.

.................

I continue to update all these pages as new information pours in from the catalogs. I have recently updated the Bill Simpson page. I have also added a new page: Recipes

Recently I gave six pints of my green tomato salsa to a friend who has to be on a low potassium diet. Red tomatoes have twice the potassium of green tomatoes. If he wants tomatoes in his life at all, he'd better get to growing tomatoes and processing the green ones into salsa.

I discovered the green salsa quite by accident. We always had these hard green tomatoes left over from regular salsa making. They never were going to turn red. So, one year, I processed them into a green salsa. My partners went crazy over the stuff. My daughter thinks I should make it commercially. It is tarter and fruitier than the red, but in its own way it is just as good. It is something to think about making. We find that it is particularly good with pork.

November 8, 2009

Now that the beds are cleared from this past growing season, we begin the next season. For me that means looking at new varieties. This is a process that will continue through the end of January. I am beginning this new season with a search for watermelon.

There is a triumverate of main factors that determine your success in your garden:

By Spring 2009 I was convinced that the way to grow watermelon in Wyoming is to give it an extra boost of heat, particularly during June, which is usually on the cool side. I did this by building a small tent over each bed. The ten allowed light to enter, but kept heat trapped inside. The watermelon seemed to like this. At the end of the season I got a note from a fellow gardener who raised her watermelons in a hill of pure horse manure. I think one reason she was successful was that the manure, like my tent, gave the watermelon a boost in heat. Also, from what I have been able to read, watermelons are probably the most demanding of all plants in the garden for good rich fertilizer. The horse manure probably filled that need.

The seed catalogs throw a lot of information at you. It can be difficult to sort through all the data from all those sources to determine which variety to plant. I recently did a survey of watermelon from all the catalogs I get. I was looking for red-fleshed watermelon, that have short days-to-maturity, and which get good sized. Of course, the One Third Rule dictates that a 30 pound watermelon will only get to be 20 pounds in Wyoming. But, I would be happy with that. What I am not completely satisfied with is the 12 pound watermelon only growing to be 8 pounds here.

I put the data from the various catalogs into a spread sheet and ran the numbers through a formula, giving advantage to short season and large size. Here are the top ten rated watermelons I found in descending order.

Dixie Queen Baker Seeds 80 days 40 lbs. 30 lbs.(1/3 Rule)
Crimson Sensation Gurney Seeds 80 days 32.5 lbs. 21 lbs.(1/3 Rule)
Stone Mountain Baker Seeds 80 days 30 lbs. 20 lbs.(1/3 Rule)
Million Bucks Burpee Seeds 78 days 25 lbs. 17 lbs.(1/3 Rule)
Crimson Sweet Burpee Seeds 80 days 25 lbs. 17 lbs.(1/3 Rule)
Verona Baker Seeds 78 days 20 lbs. 13 lbs.(1/3 Rule)
Kleckley's Sweet Baker Seeds 85 days 30 lbs. 20 lbs.(1/3 Rule)
Sugar Bowl Burpee Seeds 85 days 25 lbs. 17 lbs.(1/3 Rule)
Fairfax Baker Seeds 86 days 30 lbs. 20 lbs.(1/3 Rule)
Kleckley's Sweet Shumway Seeds 87 days 30 lbs. 20 lbs.(1/3 Rule)

2010 Planting Guide

Click Here For 2009 Tomato Taste Test

= Rated for Taste
= Rated for Production

-22/22
Type

2009/2010

Variety ...those in yellow are varieties we are trialing Seed Vigor Plants/Area Weeks to Set Out Start Dates Set Out/Sow
Tomatoes:
Indeterminates
Bloody Butcher
Heirloom


Indeterminate
4/4
High 4 plants 10 Mar 16 May 25
Black Krim
Heirloom


Indeterminate
4/4
High 4 plants 10 Mar 16 May 25
Tomande
Heirloom


Indeterminate
4/4
High 4 plants 10 Mar 16 May 25
Rose
Heirloom


Indeterminate
4/4
High 4 plants 10 Mar 16 May 25
Big Beef
Hybrid

Indeterminate
2/2
High 2 plants 10 Mar 16 May 25
Amish Paste
Hybrid

Indeterminate
2/2
High 2 plants 10 Mar 16 May 25
Ingegnoli Gigante Liscio
Heirloom

Indeterminate
0/2
High 2 plants 10 Mar 16 May 25
Anna Russian
Heirloom

Indeterminate
0/2
High 2 plants 10 Mar 16 May 25
Pantano Romanesco
Heirloom

Indeterminate
0/2
High 2 plants 10 Mar 16 May 25
Tomatoes:
Determinates
Applause
Hybrid


Determinate
28/32
High 32 plants 10 Mar 16 May 25
Small tomatoes:
Indeterminate
Red Lightning
Hybrid


Indeterminate
4/4
High 4 plants 10 Mar 16 May 25
Black Plum
Heirloom


Indeterminate
4/4
High 4 plants 10 Mar 16 May 25
Garden Huckleberry Chichiquelite ...Heirloom*** - 9/9 High 9 sq ft 10 Mar 16 May 25
Peppers Planted Whopper (Bell)
10
High 10 plants 9 Mar 23 May 25
Gurney Giant
10
High 10 plants 9 Mar 23 May 25
Bell Boy
9
High 9 plants 9 Mar 23 May 25
Mucho Nacho Jalapeno
8
High 8 plants 9 Mar 23 May 25
Wonder Bell
5
High 5 plants 9 Mar 23 May 25
Mucho Nacho Jalapeno
8
High 8 plants 9 Mar 23 May 25
Hot Banana
4
High 4 plants 9 Mar 23 May 25
Hungarian Wax
2
High 2 plants 9 Mar 23 May 25
Sweet Red Cherry
3
High 3 plants 9 Mar 23 May 25
Carmen
3
High 3 plants 9 Mar 23 May 25
Golden Summer
3
High 3 plants 9 Mar 23 May 25
Santa Fe Grands
3
High 3 plants 9 Mar 23 May 25
Peppers Planned but not Planted Fat 'N Sassy
- 18/9
High 9 plants 9 Mar 23 May 25
Margret's Pepper
- 0/9
High 9 plants 9 Mar 23 May 25
Wonder Bell
- 0/9
High 9 plants 9 Mar 23 May 25
Gypsy
- 0/9
High 9 plants 9 Mar 23 May 25
Cherry Bomb
- 9/9
High 9 plants 9 Mar 23 May 25
Mucho Nacho Jalapeno - 5/5 High 5-10 plants 9 Mar 23 May 25
Thai Hot Bird ...Heirloom***
- 3/3
Medium 3 plants 9 Mar 23 May 25
Bulgarian Carrot Chile - 5/5 High 5-10 plants 10 Mar 23 May 25
Cauliflower Fremont
- 20/20
High 20 plants 7 Apr 6 May 25
Cabbage Savoy Express ...Heirloom***
- 6/6
High 6 plants 6 Apr 13 May 25
Chinese Cabbage Minuet - 0/6 Medium 6 plants 6 Apr 13 May 25
Baby Bok Choi - 0/6 Medium 6 plants 6 Apr 13 May 25
Pea Super Sugar Snap
- 21/21
Medium 21 sq. ft. direct sow May 11 May 11
Cucumber Cool Breeze ...Heirloom***
- 27/27
Medium 27 sq. ft. 3 May 11 May 25
Diamant - 0/9 Medium 9 sq ft 3 May 11 May 25
Sweet Success
- 18/18
Medium 18 sq. ft. 3 May 11 May 25
Marketmore 76 - 0/9 Medium 9 sq ft 3 May 11 May 25
Pumpkin Autumn Gold - 6/6 Medium 6 plants 3 May 11 May 25
Lady Godiva ...Heirloom*** - 0/6 Low 6 plants 3 May 11 May 25
Bush Spirit - 0/6 High 6 plants 3 May 11 May 25
Sorcerer - 12/12 Medium 12 plants 3 May 11 May 25
Summer Squash Sunburst Pattypan
- 12/12
Medium 12 plants 3 May 11 May 25
? Zucchini
- 6/6
Medium 6 sq. ft. 3 May 11 May 25
Goldrush Zuc
- 6/6
Medium 6 sq. ft. 3 May 11 May 25
Winter Squash Heart of Gold
- 12/12
Medium 12 plants 3 May 11 May 25
Canesi - Butternut
- 12/12
Medium 12 plants 3 May 11 May 25
Table Ace Acorn
- 12/12
Medium 12 plants 3 May 11 May 25
Sunshine
- 12/12
Medium 12 plants 3 May 11 May 25
Lakota ...Heirloom***
- 12/12
Medium 12 plants 3 May 11 May 25
Watermelon Crimson Sweet -0/1 Medium 1 tire 4 May 11 June 1
Dixie Queen - 0/1 ...Heirloom*** - 0/1 Medium 1 tire 4 May 11 June 1
Verona - 0/1 Medium 1 tire 4 May 11 June 1
Bush Bean Roma II
- 18/18
Medium 18 square feet Direct Sow NA May 1 - 18
Golden Rod
- 18/18
Medium 18 square feet Direct Sow NA May 1 - 18
Rocdor Yellow
- 18/18
Medium 18 square feet Direct Sow NA May 1 - 18
Espada
- 18/18
Medium 18 square feet Direct Sow NA May 1 - 18
Contender
- 18/18
Medium 18 square feet Direct Sow NA May 1 - 18
Broccoli Packman - buy plants locally
- 12/12
Medium 12 plants NA NA May 1 - 18
Carrot Danvers
...Heirloom

- 9/9
High 9 square feet direct sow NA May 1
Tendersweet
- 9/9
High 9 square feet direct sow NA May 1
Sweetness II
- 9/9
High 9 square feet direct sow NA May 1
Celery Buy Plants Locally - 4/4 NA 4 plants NA Mar 16 June 2
Chard - 6/6 Bright Lights
- 6/6
Medium 6 square feet direct sow NA May 25
Corn Bodacious
- 188/188
Medium 188 plants direct sow NA May 11-15
Leaf Lettuce Simpson Elite
- 3/3
Medium 3 square feet direct sow NA May 1
Green Ice
- 3/3
Medium 3 square feet direct sow NA May 1
Red Sails
- 3/3
Medium 3 square feet direct sow NA May 1
Head Lettuce Summertime
- 3/3
Medium 3 square feet direct sow NA May 1
Nevada
- 3/3
Medium 3 square feet direct sow NA May 1
Buttercrunch
- 3/3
Medium 3 square feet direct sow NA May 1
Onion SuperStar Plants
Dixon Dale Farms
Medium 22 square feet direct sow NA May 1
Leek Lancelot Plants - 5/5
Dixon Dale Farms
NA 5 tires direct sow NA May 1
Beet Red Ace - 0/9 NA 5 tires direct sow NA May 1 - 18
Radish White Icicle - ? NA ? May 1 - 18
Salad Rose - ? NA ? May 1 - 18
Long Red - ? NA ? May 1 - 18
German Giant - ? NA ? May 1 - 18
Herb Basil - Summerlong - ? NA ?
Basil - Greek - ? NA ?
Basil - Spicy Saber - ? NA ?
Chives - Common - ? NA ?
Cilantro - ? NA ?
Fennel - ? NA ?
Marjaram, Sweet - ? NA ?
Oregano, Greek - ? NA ?
Parseley - Extra Curled Dwarf - ? NA ?
Rosemary - ? NA ?
Sage, Common - ? NA ?
Thyme, Common - ? NA ?
Tarragon if possible - ? NA ?
Lavender if possible - ? NA ?
Gourd Big Birdhouse - ? NA ?
Little Birdhouse - ? NA ?
Easter Eggs - ? NA ?
Flowers ? NA 2 tires

powered by website design company
powered by web design company .

Click here to email Fred Jacquot